Thank you: I'll take a Playa del Cuco please

(Armando Trull/WAMU)

Chef Ismar Reyes-Cruz looks to elevate Salvadoran cuisine in Washington, D.C.

Now some local Salvadoran foodies are trying to change your perceptions of their country's cuisine.

"This is a Salvadoran cocktail; its called Playa del Cuco — the name of a Salvadoran Beach," says Hector Carmona, the bartender at Chef Geoff's restaurant on New Mexico Avenue NW.

Carmona says if Mexicans have a margarita, why shouldn't Salvadorans have their signature drink?

"Made by Jocote, which is a delicious fruit from El Salvador, Nance another fruit from El Salvador, the main ingredient which is Chaparro Flor de Fuego — a spirit from El Salvador made from sugar cane molasses," Carmona says. "It's very similar to moonshine."

The color is an orange or pineapple color and its garnished with Pepino and chili-pickled cucumber

Across the room, Salvadoran chef Ismar Reyes Cruz is plating some pupusas. But they are a far cry from the humble peasant fare many associate with these corn cakes.

"Can you taste the quesillo? That's not mozzarella, that's not monterey jack, its a quesillo from El Salvador," Cruz says.

There's also a salpicon — a type of ceviche you eat with crunchy yuca chips.

"Just the difference is it's a little bit dry. Ceviche has a lot of juice or leche de trige," Cruz says. "That's the mango and the fresh coconut — that's what makes the whole dish different."

It's pretty surprising how fast globalization has changed Salvadoran pupusas. When I spent 1997 in El Salvador, you had corn pupusas. f you wanted your pupusa made of rice, you had to search for a restaurant that carried them. They had a special sign out front with Olocuilta prominently displayed. You always had the option of cheese, refried beans, chicharrón, or revuelta. Not my favorite, but you could also find loroco sometimes. I don't think that it was seasonable, but only a few places carried pupusas made with loroco. Now you can find shrimp and chicken and many other varieties.

I'm still a traditionalist. I always order cheese and beans. However, I did go outside my comfort zone to add jalapenos to my cheese and beans on my recent trip - probably a far cry from Chef Reyes' elevated pupusas.

Now I'll just have to find a Playa del Cuco.